 |
1.1 - biner friction knot. First published in 1951. Mostly used
in preparing first ascends. |
 |
1.2 - Bachmann knot, known as Nodo Bachmann in the
Italian-speaking part, sometimes known as Bachmannknoten in the
German-speaking part, but named like this in textbooks to distinguish it
from other friction knots tied with biners. |
 |
1.3 - If the friction is too low due to a slick rope or
undesireable biner shape, wrap the cord around the rope a few times as
depicted. |
 |
1.4 - FB-ring knot. A knot with a tight profile. Very good
friction, even on icy or wet ropes, while easily relocatable. Relation
of cord/rope diameter up to 1:1. Especially suited for pretied ascending
loops on a glacier. Ring made from steel, 4 to 5mm thickness, 26 to 30mm
diameter. The ring experiences little mechanical stress during ascending. |
 |
1.5 - FB-knot. If no such ring is available, an overhand knot
like depicted can be used as a replacement. This knot, like the FB-sling
knot, is derived from the Klemheist, but they provide more grip, are
more easily relocatable and suitable for building a one-way locking
clutch. Both knots may also be tied with webbing. |