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The FB-sling friction knot, tied with a sewn sling, offers
some advantages over a common Prusik knot:
- Greatly increased friction (even jams on steel wire)
- An overhand knot tied close to the sewn junction provides a loop
that stays open due to the stiffness of the seam. This eases the
tying of the knot, and also unjams the knot after the load is
released allowing the knot to be moved without further interaction
- A sewn sling is stronger than a tied Prusik sling as there is no
knot to pose a weak point or come undone
- Instead of carrying knotted Prusik slings, a 60cm sewn sling can
be used. A rope fixation can be set up very quickly, and it provides
better handling and friction. This is especially important for the
thin ropes used nowadays. Passing braking knots during self-rescue
from crevasses works similar quickly to a Tibloc, but is more gentle to the
rope.
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